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New York City’s Best Mexican Restaurants

Mexicana Mama

Authentic Mexican cooking for gourmets, in a miniscule West Village spot.

Food

(8)

Ambience

(4)

Service

(6)

Value

(5)

The Scene

The space is tiny, with a counter against one wall and a row of tables against the other. The ensuing bottlenecks and cramped feeling, sadly, detract from what is otherwise a lovely experience. The decor is casual and festive, but most of the visual interest lies in the open kitchen, which takes up half the room. A maneuver past the grill is required to get to the bathroom.

The Food

Density of taste is the thing here. Every dish reveals several richly layered flavors, each distinct but complementary. Tender grilled meats, a variety of chiles, tart Mexican cheeses, lime, and avocado are all prominent, along with a supporting cast of fruit and nut flavors, tequila marinades, corn, and more. The daily specials are always excellent, as are everyday favorites like the barbacoa burrito, the beef-and-avocado salad, and the queso flameado. For dessert, try the "flan," which is really much more a cheesecake.

Long Lines

It's a squeeze to get in, and they don't take reservations, so be prepared to wait at all but the most offpeak hours.

525 Hudson St.
New York, NY 10014-2607
Phone: (212) 924-4119