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Theater District: The Best of NYC Dining - RestaurantTriompheBy doing big things in a small space, this spot proves it's all in the details. The SettingThis intimate room (only 11 tables) in the newly-renovated Iroquois Hotel is subtly swank: gentle light flatters and soft music swings. Charming and capable young servers don't need to rush because they never have far to go. Quietly, you feel attended to. The CuisineThere are no avant-garde ingredients or novelty combinations on chef Steven Sobel's French-inspired menu; everything is done with grace, balance and care. If it wasn't so refined, you might call it comfort food. Sauces and reductions are a strong point and vegetables taste of the garden. Little touches that appear at first to be decorative frills--from a thatch of spicy sprouts on top of the roast lamb to the dense raspberry puree painted under the tarte Tatin--add strong, clear flavors, perfectly matched to the dishes. 49 W. 44th St. |
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